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There was a time in Australia when the thong, or flip-flop, was so maligned that not even the mustiest, cash-strapped RSL would allow a patron through the door in them. While the rubber Havaiana was perfect for the beach — waterproof, colourful enough to spot from a distance, and lightweight enough to feel practically disposable — wearing one to anything more formal than a post-swim picnic felt like phoning it in. In the last few years, though, thongs have staged a comeback. After visiting Copenhagen Fashion Week, we’d even argue they’ve overtaken the ballet flat and the Mary Jane as the flat shoe of choice among fashion girls and boys.
Call it The Row effect, call it the endless circulation of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy street style on our feeds (she wore her black Havaianas with loose denim and an overstuffed Birkin), but the thong has bewitched the style set with its aura of unbothered casualness. It’s almost impossible to look like you’re trying too hard when your footwear is made of rubber.
It also aligns with the broader rise of what we’ll call “holiday-core.” Whether it’s the candy-bright Euro designers of the early 2000s or the extremely inadvisable return of the tan line in Europe, the current mood is about looking like you’ve just flown back from an obscure Greek island. In a shaky economy, nothing reads chicer than carefree vacation energy.
Related: I Went To Europe And Everyone Was Wearing This Aussie Shoe Staple
While the trend has surged through Europe and onto the scruffy pavements of New York and London, Australians are still playing catch-up. Yes, we’ve embraced the thong heel, the polished, sultry cousin of the flip-flop, but on the streets of Sydney or Melbourne, rubber thongs are still remembered as the appendage you wore while scarfing sausage rolls after Nippers, not for an orange wine on a Friday with friends, or front row at Fashion Week.
Despite the cultural cringe associated with the shoe, the thong has won us over. Our recent trip to Copenhagen marked the second time an ELLE Australia writer has been both scandalised and charmed by Europe’s unabashed embrace of the thong. It’s the easiest way to dress down an outfit, a transitional staple for those in-between months when you’re still layering denim and knits over dresses. Below, we’ve gathered our Fashion Week style notes and show you exactly how to wear the thong, because like it or not, it’s back.
Styling Thongs Quick Tips:
If you’re worried about looking underdressed, a quick way to ensure the thong is adding the correct dose of je ne sais quoi to an outfit is ensuring there’s a balance of effort in your look. There are a few ways of doing this.
Accessories
A thong is the ultimate equaliser: it keeps a Birkin from feeling try-hard, and it keeps Havaianas from feeling basic. Think Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, quietly iconic in rubber soles and a Hermès. The trick? Offset the casualness of a flip-flop with a bag that whispers “investment piece” or jewellery that sparkles just so. Suddenly, your thongs read bohemian goddess—not “these were the only shoes by the door.”
Structure
Nothing says “I know exactly what I’m doing” like undercutting sharp tailoring with a humble thong. It’s the wink in your boardroom blazer, the “I could be at the beach in 20” energy beneath a power suit. Thongs bring that little dose of chaos—reminding everyone you’re extremely cool and gainfully employed.
Beauty
The golden rule of flip-flops? Keep something polished. A ring stack and fresh mani signal you’ve got your life together, even if your footwear screams coastal detour. No need for a full face—just a lip that pops or cheeks with a hint of colour can steer thongs into chic, intentional territory. And yes, most of us prefer a pedicure before baring all. Winter feet are no one’s accessory.
How Are People Wearing Thongs?
Layers:
With layers. We all know dresses over jeans are back, but the Scandinavians are taking a maximalist approach to layering. Throw a sheer sparkly dress over tracksuit pants, layer a slip over a rugby shirt! Do what you feel, just make sure you wear it with thongs, the ultimate finishing touch for the modern bohemian.
Tailoring:
As mentioned, thongs are a quick way to tell everyone you’re a cool corporate, not a stuffed suit. If you’re office dress code policy draws a line on naked feet, opt for a leather version.
With Loose Denim:
Thongs are the perfect complement to the baggy jeans trend. We recommend styling with an oversized T-shirt and large designer bag (if you’re too cash-strapped for a Birkin, any polished oversized carry-all will work.
With Midi Skirts:
The Mary Jane was once the boon companion of the midi skirt, but as of this year, it’s been replaced with the thong.
As A Pop Of Colour
Outfit starting to feel flat? Personal style shines through in the unexpected, so throw a sartorial curveball and add a pop of colour to an otherwise sensible outfit.
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