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Celine set its Autumn Winter 2026 presentation inside a timber structure in a quiet courtyard behind the Institute of France, home to academies supporting creativity across literature, music, dance, and science. Creative director Michael Rider framed his third season for the house around “confidence”, the kind that comes from instinct rather than calculation, describing it in the show notes as, “Intuition over strategy. Feeling it rather than planning it.”
This spirit translated into silhouettes that felt assured, rather than dramatic. Jackets sat cleanly on the shoulder and hugged the torso before breaking into kick-flare trousers. Classic French naval coats were reworked with sharper lines and men’s outerwear stretched into elegant, narrow overcoats, (worn with feathers in the hair).
There was a particular attention to layering and accessories with long coats revealing flashes of colour beneath, charm necklaces clinking against knits and shirts, derby hats and bucket hats tilting the looks slightly off-kilter. Footwear ranged from plimsolls that casually grounded outfits while kitten-heeled ankle boots offered more polish.
Rider spent years working under Phoebe Philo during her influential tenure at the house and moments here – the disciplined tailoring, the ease of silhouettes, touches of unexpected eccentricity (like stiff silk scarves tied to almost swallow the head) – seemed to acknowledge that legacy.
In the front row, guests including Bae Suzy, Tracee Ellis Ross, Sarah Paulson and Natasha Lyonne watched on. If Rider’s goal was to strip fashion back to instinct, to “speak about style without irony”, as per the show notes, the result felt refreshingly direct.
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