In the weeks leading up to Peter Do’s debut for Helmut Lang, it became one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season. Outside the venue, the hype was palpable with guests jostling to get in. Do’s friend, the writer Ocean Vuong, had painted verses of a poem on the concrete floor, a nod to the slogans Lang used from artist Jenny Holzer. Vuong’s words were also emblazoned on T-shirts: “Your car was my first room” read one. Do continued to delve into the Lang archive with seatbelt straps and Crombie coats, but it was the simple tailoring, such as flat-front trousers, that stood out.