Views: 296
Can a crush cure a broken heart? I found myself mulling over this question recently, when a rather flirtatious fragrance arrived at my front door. Feeling depleted from the dissolution of my last relationship, I was taking a firm break from romance. But as I unboxed Nina Ricci’s Rouge Crush Eau de Parfum, I’ll admit I felt intrigued. Predicated on the thrill of desire, this fragrance, I figured, might help me get back on my feet. Rouge Crush marks the fourth addition to the Nina by Nina Ricci lineup. The iconic range, which debuted in 2006, is known for its candy-apple bottle and signature vanilla base. Launched in July, this edition is decidedly sexier: its glossy vessel is the colour of a juicy cherry, with a darkened bite-mark beckoning you to try. The packaging, winking with provocation, promises “an unforgettable crush.” Even in my saddened state, it was an offer I couldn’t refuse. At its best, a crush makes you feel alive. It starts in your stomach and flutters up to your throat. It flushes your cheeks, pounds at your heart and sends sweat to your palms. It can be impossible to put into words exactly the feeling Ane Ayo, the perfumer behind this scent, wanted to bottle up. “What I like about a crush is that you don’t know how to define it, but you know when you feel it,” she tells me. “It’s electrifying: the excitement, the nervousness… Suddenly everything is more colourful.”
photo courtesy of nina ricci
Fittingly, the fragrance profile is complex and layered, charting the experience of falling for someone. Top notes burst with bright yuzu and ripe cherry, reminiscent of a first-glance thrill. That brightness fades into elegant florals—delicate gardenia and blossoming rose—“like discovering the gentle side of the person you like,” Ayo says. Afterwards comes a wave of warmth: smooth vanilla, woody cedar and rich caramel. You’re left with something comforting and addictive, evoking the intoxicating early days of a dalliance. Rouge Crush is a scent you want to taste, a delicious example of the gourmand allure. To Ayo, this element was essential to capturing the heart of the fragrance. “Having a crush is a multi-sensory experience,” she says. Think of how, even when the memory of a love interest fades, other senses linger, like the smell of their hair and the flavour of their cooking. To tap into this intensity, Ayo began with the original formula’s caramel and vanilla, adding a new dimension with dark cherry. In recent years, the stone fruit has become a staple of sensual beauty, doubling as a natural blush and messy lip tint on TikTok. “Cherries have a unique duality: they’re nostalgic because they remind us of childhood, but they’re still very sophisticated,” she says. Throughout the formulation process, she also took inspiration from teenage media that has scandalized and romanced pop culture, from the Spice Girls ’90s-era glowy glam to Euphoria’s effervescent aesthetics. “The technical work comes after,” she adds. “But the heart of the fragrance is linked to a feeling.” After weeks of wallowing, I wanted to rediscover that feeling for myself. So, I packed Rouge Crush for a weekend getaway with friends. Before our first night out, I spritzed us all generously, turning the lacquered apple into our secret elixir as we danced with strangers and made fun, if fleeting, new connections. I thought about how my most intense emotions, for better or worse, have come from having a crush. Passion might not lead to a lasting partnership, but it wakes you up to something real. “We are in a period of uncertainty,” Ayo reflects when I ask about the inspiration behind this release. “People are looking for softness, for pleasure.” As I soon learned, even when you’re disillusioned with love, the slightest whiff of infatuation is nothing short of magic. Continue Reading
