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For its Spring Summer 2025 collection, Chanel returns to Paris’ Grand Palais to present a collection inspired by the breathtaking space. The historic, light-drenched exhibition hall with its iconic glass dome resembles an aviary, inspiring Chanel’s creative studio to look to both birds and aviation as its muses. Both on and off the runway, the event took the themes of flight seriously, with actress Riley Keough taking to a giant swing to perform Prince’s ‘When Doves Cry’. Meanwhile, on the runway, floating fabrics and feathered fringe evoked the airy, gravity defying visions intended by the House.
The SS25 collection is a “tribute to women who freed themselves from the cumbersome gaze of society, just like Gabrielle Chanel”. The collection is filled with chiffon capes, floating behind models as they walked the soft-pink runway. Mixed amongst Chanel’s signature tweed, sheer, lightweight shirts and dresses offer an ode to delicacy and movement. A fresh, pastel palette, true to Chanel’s legacy, also offers a fun, contemporary point of view in keeping with the collection’s light look and feel.
The bench-lined front row featured the classic roster of familiar Chanel faces, including Blackpink’s Jennie Kim, Lupita Nyong’o, Greta Gerwig, Margaret Qualley, Naomi Campbell and more.
The runway was decorated with a large antique birdcage, suggesting a new legacy motif for the brand. Gabrielle Chanel was reportedly given a birdcage by one of her seamstresses, providing the inspiration for the 1991 commercial for the Coco Chanel fragrance starring Vanessa Paradis. Chanel also showed a birdcage evening bag in its 2020 pre-fall collection. Meanwhile, feathers have long been a favourite motif of Chanel, with Gabrielle associating them with freedom and spirit, especially for women. One look at the SS25 show, and these legacy themes continue to hold strong in the bold spirit of Chanel.
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