Views: 42
We’re often told that acne is something you grow out of—a teenage rite of passage you simply endure until your early twenties, when smooth, clear skin is supposed to magically appear. But for countless adults, that day never arrives. Breakouts persist well into their 20s, 30s, 40s, and beyond, often bringing a fresh layer of frustration and confusion. Plus, the persistent framing of acne as “a teen problem” has left many adults without a clear place to turn for real answers. To break down the myths and get clarity on what adult acne actually is—and isn’t—we sat down with two board-certified dermatologists who treat the condition every day. Here, they explain why breakouts continue beyond adolescence, the most effective ways to treat them at home, when it’s time to see a doctor and how to navigate dark spots and scarring.
What is adult acne?
Adult acne refers to breakouts that persist or first appear after age 25, often showing up as deeper, more inflammatory cysts along the jawline and cheeks. It affects people of all genders but can be particularly common in women due to their ongoing hormonal shifts. “Hormones are always at play, which is why some areas of the body that are more androgen-rich—like the lower face, chest and back—are more likely to be affected by acne,” says Dr. Renée A. Beach of Toronto’s Dermatelier on Avenue. Besides hormones, genetics and stress levels can also prime the skin for chronic inflammation that may result in breakouts. External triggers like over-cleansing or heavy makeup can play a role in keeping acne active, too. “I always review skincare and makeup products with my patients to see if they’re causing irritation,” says Dr. Panteha Eshtiaghi, who also practices at Dermatelier on Avenue. “Sometimes, even the application of hair products can bleed onto the face or neck and cause acne-like lesions.” Environmental stressors like humidity and pollution can also further inflame pores, especially when paired with inconsistent cleansing routines. Together, these day-to-day factors all add up and can explain why even well-managed skin can suddenly tip back into breakout mode.
What are the best at-home treatments?
The most effective at-home routines keep things simple—think gentle daily cleansing, consistent SPF usage and targeted active spot treatments. Dermatologists recommend salicylic acid for deep pore clearing, glycolic acid for smoothing and azelaic acid for calming inflammation. Retinoids are also key as they help to clear pores and jumpstart the cell turnover process. With any at-home treatment, though, be sure to start with lower doses and proceed slowly with patience. “Anybody trying to jump from product to product to see results after a few weeks is unfortunately going to be disappointed,” says Dr. Beach. “Consistency is key, and people need to look for results after about three months.” [content_module id=”1″]
Should you wear makeup if you struggle with adult acne?
Experts agree that it’s totally okay to wear makeup while dealing with acne—as long as you’re strategic about what you use. Dense foundations and rich creams can trap debris and keep acne active, especially around the cheeks and hairline. Instead, dermatologists recommend water-based, non-comedogenic products and emphasize the importance of thoroughly cleansing at the end of every day. “Makeup can help people feel confident and at ease, so I’m fine with my patients wearing it,” says Dr. Beach.
“Anybody trying to jump from product to product to see results after a few weeks is unfortunately going to be disappointed.”
When should you see a dermatologist, and how can they help?
If your breakouts haven’t improved after about 6 to 8 weeks of consistent at-home care—or if you’re dealing with painful cysts, persistent inflammation or marks that won’t fade—it’s time to see a dermatologist. Many experts also encourage booking sooner rather than later. “I want to see people as soon as possible because if acne goes untreated, it can cause scarring, which is often harder to treat than the acne itself,” stresses Dr. Eshtiaghi. Dermatologists can offer prescription options that go beyond drugstore solutions, including stronger retinoids and, in some cases, targeted antibiotics. They can also help identify internal triggers (like medication side effects) and tailor a plan directly to your skin’s needs that targets acne at its source. In-office procedures can amplify results as well. Chemical peels and medicated facials may help unclog pores quickly and are especially useful for people who are craving a deeper cleansing experience than what they can do at home. On the other hand, lasers and light-based treatments—from broadband light to newer devices that target sebum and reduce oil production—can calm inflammation and improve texture over time. “These treatments are great for people who have maybe had a bad side effect or an inadequate response to traditional therapies,” says Dr. Beach. However, she also notes that they usually aren’t covered by Canada’s public insurance plan, so patients should be prepared to pay out of pocket for the procedures.
Photography via Spotlight/Launchmetrics
How can you treat acne scars and dark marks?
Dark spots (also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) often respond well to brightening ingredients like glycolic acid, azelaic acid and retinoids, which help fade pigment and even out tone over time. Daily sunscreen is key too, since UV exposure can deepen discoloration and slow the fading process. True scars—those that leave behind indentations or textural changes—usually require more focused treatment, and early use of retinoids at home can help soften them before they set in. Both experts also note that those with deeper skin tones tend to be especially prone to hyperpigmentation, which often results in a need for more intensive care earlier on. “If I have a patient that I know is more prone to scarring, I may be more aggressive with earlier treatment because we want to reduce the appearance of those marks,” says Dr. Eshtiaghi. Above all, avoiding picking is a must as squeezing inflamed spots creates deeper trauma that dramatically raises the risk of both scars and dark marks. “Picking always wins,” Dr. Beach shares. “If you’re picking, any treatment you do will be much less effective, so it’s really important to do whatever it takes to stop yourself from going there.” Continue Reading
