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Hermès might be renowned as one of the world’s finest makers of leather goods, but with its spring/summer 2027 collection, creative director Nadège Vanhée seemed to say, “Look at everything else we can do too.”
From the show’s outset, Vanhée let the light in — literally. The first four looks were made from an open-knit, sheer enough to reveal the briefs and bandeaus worn beneath, but made more modest with the addition of a knee-length collarless leather trench in one case and a ruffled cropped jacket in another. Finely-woven organza soon appeared on floaty dresses, which were toughened up by waist-cinching leather belts. The palette was soft: beige, cream, powder blue.
Right before you started to wonder whether Hermès’ equestrian inflection would appear in the collection at all, Vanhée allayed any concerns. First came a pair of knee-high riding boots worn with belted briefs and a black-trimmed camel-coloured trench. Then, there was a leather coat, its stand collar and waist secured with buckles reminiscent of those used to secure a saddle, and its hem spliced into panels, flitting around as the model walked.
As the collection unfolded, Vanhée revealed Hermès’ breadth. Relaxed paper bag-waist trousers alongside tapered leather ones, strict utilitarian jackets and vests next to airy skirts and dresses that floated around ankles. The midriff was an area of interest in the collection too: a collection of bodysuits appeared as three horizontal panels, spaced just so to reveal slivers of skin. In some looks, silk scarves were tied around the torso in a similar fashion, while in others, double-strap leather belts recreated the spliced-effect for those not quite ready to go full throttle. It was sexy without being ostentatious — a balance Vanhée has been striking for 12 years at Hermès.
The colour palette was another area where Vanhée pushed the boundaries of what we’ve come to expect from the maison. The collection began in a familiar array of creamy neutrals like white and cream, camel, brown and grey, before all of a sudden exploding into banana yellow and vermillion. The same silhouettes remained, but the punctuation of brash colour made you sit up a bit straighter, look a little closer. If there’s one thing Vanhée has proved over the last decade and a bit, it’s that Hermès might be a storied maison, but that doesn’t mean it’s scared of evolution.
The post For Spring/Summer 2027, Hermès Brings Levity To Leather appeared first on ELLE.
