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Where ex-Céline and Chloé creative director Phoebe Philo goes, fashion girlies typically follow — which is perhaps why she inadvertently sparked one of the biggest shoe comebacks we’ve seen in decades back in 2024: the triumphant return of the thong heel.
On July 18, 2024 the pioneer of intimidatingly minamalist style shared a cryptic, uncaptioned image on Instagram. Philo’s post featured a pair of bronzed, splayed, crimson-painted toes lifting suggestively from a black leather thong sandal — scandalising sartorial purists and survivors of the original Y2K craze alike. Thus the spectre of the thong heel was summoned like a thirteenth fairy: rising wicked and uninvited to reawaken the chronically online fashion world’s deepest recesses.
Former Vogue writer, consultant and Substacker-at-large Liana Satenstein took to Instagram to declare a state of emergency. “My Instagram is full of nasty FREAKS reposting her [Philo’s] thong wedge aka cousin of the thong heel…” she said in a post that ran to 295 words.
The ELLE Edit Of The Best Thong Heels:
- Best Statement Sandal: Billini Quinty Sandal, $99.95
- Best Wear With Anything: Tony Bianco Krista Sandal, $179.95
- Best Low Heel: Toteme Satin Sandals, $885
- Best Colour Pop: Senso Ultima Heel, $220
She described the thong heel as “the most disgustingly sexy shoe,” noting that the flip-flop style courts the danger of placing your foot near “the nasty ground,” and that the high risk of sole exposure requires a ruthlessly buffed, plump and pedicured heel.
Others followed suit.
One commenter confessed under Satenstein’s post: “I’m not emotionally ready for my soles and toes to be so visible to the general public. It feels sl***tier than a bikini and there’s men outside.” Others shared war stories: “I was wearing one at the dog park and a dog peed on my foot.” Chilling stuff.
The Thong Heel: A Brief History
Thong heels are, of course, about as close as you can get to foot lingerie while still being admitted to venues that don’t accept Havaianas as dress shoes. But since 2024, they’ve made a sleek transition into the socially acceptable mainstream.
The thong heel had its glossy-mag reign in the ’90s, given a sheen of respectability in editorials by Raymond Meier and Steven Meisel. They were seen on the dainty soles of Natalie Portman at the MTV Awards, Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City, and wrapped sinuously around Gisele Bündchen’s perfectly bronzed feet on billboards and in shiny print pages.
But, like the whale tail, they eventually fell out of favour. “Toe overhang” became a fashion faux pas akin to a visible panty line. Those of us old enough to indulge in the trend the first time remember the chilling moment when a polished appendage brushed the sticky surface of a nightclub floor soaked in Jägermeister and Red Bull. Those who weren’t might recall stumbling around in affordable but ill-advised rubbery kitten heel flip-flops — which are also making a return.
Elsewhere, brands like The Row, Bottega Veneta and Staud have ushered in the trend’s minimalist rebirth, offering supple leather stiletto thongs and kitten-heeled sandals in deliciously neutral shades of butterscotch and cream — the fashion girl’s answer to dirty martinis and low-rise tailored trousers.
We could blame it on Brat. Charli XCX’s 2024 album made everything from under-eye bags and looking hungover to slogan tees and ballet flats acceptable again. She described the feeling as akin to wearing “a strappy white top with no bra,” and we’d say the thong heel is the podiatric equivalent. Celebrities, including Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, and Emily Ratajkowski, agree (as do a legion of attendees at Copenhagen Fashion Week).
The most recent street style images from fashion’s Nordic Utopia featured plenty of thong heels slipped on to finish oversized tailoring looks or styled with knee-high socks or jorts.
The thrill of the thong heel is reflected in the comments on Satenstein’s posts. Marisa Meltzer, fashion and beauty journalist and author of Glossy, the Emily Weiss biography, said: “I wear orange Manolo patent ones all the time and I will never stop feeling hot in them,” while others celebrated the satisfying and sexy “slap slap slap” they serve as you strut.
Ultimately, we’ve proven ourselves receptive to the feral nature of this shoe and have made peace with embracing a touch of toe chafe.
Somewhat ironically, we’re still waiting on a thong heel from Phoebe Philo — but until she commits to the trend, these are some of our favourites.
AEYDE
Wilma Leather Thong Heel
STAUD
Freja Leather Sandal
TONY BIANCO
Krista Heel
NELSON MADE
Ida Mini Sandal
SENSO
Sonya Heel
SIMKHAI
Kelsey Sandals
MNG
Strappy Heeled Sandals
AEYDE
Daphne Leather Sandals
MANOLO BLAHNIK
Susa 50 Metallic Leather Sandals
BOTTEGA VENETA
Marella Thong
GANNI
Melissa Thong Kitten Heel
1978W
Romy Kitten Heel Sandal
Breaking in a sandal is not for the faint of heart, but breaking in a thong heel is more about mastering wearing the shoe than breaking in the shoe itself. Yes, the thong straps may take a little time to soften, but usually, you won’t be dealing with a tricky backstrap or stiff, thick leather. Instead, it’s about developing the essential front-toe grip that will keep your feet planted to the earth and acclimatising yourself to the dizzying (some would say exciting!) sensation of your stiletto parting with your heel with each step. Just remember, you’re the boss.
If you’re new to the thong heel, start small. In 2024, many designers have left skyscraper iterations of the sandal behind, opting for delicately fluted kitten heels or mule wedge shapes. These smaller heels will help you get your thong heel sea legs and will make life a little more comfortable. As with any leather sandal, the interior thong can be stiff. Stylist John Muphy told Glamour in 2012 that spritzing the “thong” with some water the day before you’re due to debut it, and wearing it slightly damp will help shape the leather strips to your feet – worth a try.
The post How This ‘Nasty’ ’90s Shoe Trend Made Its Triumphant Return appeared first on ELLE.
