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For Chloé’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Chemena Kamali indulged her obsessions. “It felt liberating to work this way, to listen to the resonance of everything I feel for Chloé,” Kamali shared in the show notes. Because isn’t that what creatives of all stripes love doing most? What followed was a presentation that traced a delicate finger across the technicalities of the Maison’s archives and archetypes. The result was cohesive, modern and told a deep story about the Maison’s many-decade history, with a very light touch.
Given that Chloé is so readily embraced by today’s young It-girls, it is easy to forget that its origins stretch back to 1952. This history wasn’t lost on Kamali, who explored the many eras of the house with an exacting eye for construction and texture.
Broderie anglaise, a house signature, had its origins in Chloé’s early robes de jeunes filles. Kamali indulged in the intricacies of 19th-century threadwork, translating it to fabrics that ranged from the lightest organza to heavy cotton. In an age of rapidly paced high fashion where ready-to-wear collections are in almost constant production, this indulgence in meticulous and slow detail is a gift from a creative director to their artisans. This translation of couture principles to ready-to-wear is a sentiment we’ve seen echoed at other houses this season — notably at Schiaparelli and Dior – and perhaps an expression of a mutual yearning from both creator and consumer to find pleasure in dwelling on perfectly executed minutiae of craft.
Little flourishes, like the three-dimensional floral embroideries from 1960s prêt-à-porter collections, found their way into sweet swinging sixties mini dresses and more contemporary, elaborately fringed lavender skirt-and-top sets. Kamali also submerged herself in the joys of the neckline – an apt place to lose oneself at Chloe – an archetypally girlish house. After all, is there any collective sartorial experience more feminine than the hesitation over a neckline? A modest, collarbone-accentuating bateau for the office, a plunging V for a night out; or a delicate, décolleté-framing milkmaid neckline when you feel like indulging in some Wuthering Heights fantasies.
While there were the feminine intricacies we’ve come to expect from Kamali, unexpected moments arrived in the form of bold PVC creations. She explored 1970s shapes inspired by fisherman’s coats and capes, introducing a glossy, playful edge to the romantic lineup.
The final intimate touch was the delicate scraps of lingerie affixed to torso-baring cutaway evening gowns—silhouettes we are sure to see on red carpets very shortly.
“Obsessions and creative fixations, desires and attractions. This season I was guided by my love for Chloé. This collection, I hope, is an expression of the Maison’s heart and soul.”
If this, as the rumours go, was a swansong, it was also a love song.
The post Love Is In The Details For Chemena Kamali At Chloé Spring/Summer 2027 appeared first on ELLE.
