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Some fashion designers like to make a splash with their shows. This Paris Fashion Week, there have been sets to rival Hollywood movies and clothes that are so bold and overt in their drama they’re impossible to ignore. At Michael Rider’s Celine show, however, the pendulum swung in the opposite direction.
Held within a stark white hut constructed inside the Paris’ Musée des Archives Nationales, Rider’s Celine didn’t need to be flashy to say something interesting. Since his appointment at the house, Rider has made clothes that nod to French insouciance. He’s foregone fussy, elaborate garments in favour of expertly-cut, versatile ones that lend themselves to be layered and styled however the wearer sees fit. What it lacks in Rider’s predecessor, Hedi Slimane’s rock-and-roll, it makes up for in its modernity and superb styling — arguably, some of the best we’ve seen over the last few seasons. Spring/summer 2027 was no exception.
The show started simply: with four black looks — two suits, two dresses — each styled with a degree of peculiarity. A single-breasted blazer and relaxed trousers that tapered at the ankle were worn with tabi-style sandals and oversized orb-like earrings. Same goes with the other suit, which was worn beneath a gold opera coat embroidered with flowers. A simple black silk shift was worn with slimline black sneakers and an arm stacked to the elbow with glossy bangles.
The show continued in this fashion — a straight-forward, totally wearable look thrown off kilter by something unexpected. In a handful of cases, it was a belt that had been augmented to comic proportions, used to cinch the waist but more than that, surprise and delight onlookers. In other instances, it was jangling necklaces, either worn long to the navel or wound in layers around necks, or those signature slimline shoes appearing in fire engine red or vivid turquoise worn with a neutral ensemble. Rider is a master colourist, and though he tends to favour neutrals in his clothes, he deploys colour deftly, incorporating it in weird and wonderful ways through the collection’s styling.
Rider’s approach to Celine is reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s. It seems simplistic on the surface, but look a little deeper and the sentiment behind the clothes becomes clear: there’s nothing quiet about them. They demand a sense of style and an appreciation for great design, and oftentimes, a willingness to get a little weird.
The post Subtlety Reigned Supreme At Celine’s Spring/Summer 2027 Show appeared first on ELLE.
