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Copenhagen Fashion Week‘s spring/summer season is in full swing, and the Danes are once again taking to the cobblestones to show off their considerable street style credentials.
But it’s not just the city’s stylish citizens putting it on the map. Copenhagen’s ascendant fashion scene has made this year’s 20th anniversary edition, running August 3 to 7, an essential date on the calendar for anyone tracking the next wave of ready-to-wear talent.
For the third consecutive season, Pandora has returned as headline partner of CPHFW NEWTALENT, backing the creativity, craftsmanship and community on show across the runway, the front row and the streets of Copenhagen Fashion Week. At Anne Sofie Madsen and Taus, Pandora jewellery was woven directly into the designers’ creative visions.
Below, find some of the best runway moments from the week.
Baum und Pferdgarten
There are plenty of good spots for a glass of wine by the river in Copenhagen, and Baum und Pferdgarten co-founders Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave built their SS27 collection around the dancers they see spilling out of the Royal Danish Theatre for a post-rehearsal drink. Titled After the Rehearsal, the collection runs through leg warmers, headbands and slouchy ’90s sportswear, with a hint of dance class showing through a capri legging peeking out beneath a leather trench skirt or a ballet slipper slung over a shoulder. Ballet references turn up elsewhere too, from lace-up satin jackets to tutu-inspired belts, with a deer print and a wash of butter yellow thrown into the mix for good measure.
By Malene Birger
By Malene Birger’s eponymous label was closed by rising supermodel Mona Tougaard, a nod to the label’s growing status. The evening presentation was full of loose, elegant silhouettes and a languorous mood that read as an overview of the brand’s newly coalescing signatures, fitting given this marked a homecoming to the schedule after a six-year hiatus, under recently appointed creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt.
Gestuz
Gestuz takes its cues from the modern rock and roll woman, building pieces that allow for individualistic styling with an edge. For spring 2027, that translated into leather motorcycle jackets worn with culottes, tiger-print skirts paired with polos, and a run of safari-inspired looks.
Studio Constance
As the first Swedish label admitted to CPHFW NEWTALENT, Studio Constance made its debut with a collection from founder Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg inspired by half-dressed, wayward ladies-in-waiting for Marie Antoinette. Panniers and twisted silhouettes looked as though they’d been hastily pulled together from bedsheets, giving the collection a sculptural quality with intriguing grunge undertones running through it.
Taus
Demi-couture studio Taus was presented as part of the NEWTALENT One to Watch showcase. Founders Freyja Taus and Juho Lehiö approach fashion as a dialogue between past and present, and for this presentation, that extended to a dialogue between worlds. The collection drew on the Brontë sisters, with mermaidcore reworkings of gothic fabrications and upcycled Pandora jewels stitched into skirts.
Skall Studio
Sisters Julie and Marie Skall gave everyone a taste of the Danish countryside with their SS27 presentation, La Piscine, a meditation on the understated beauty of a Danish summer. The collection was full of easy, loose cotton separates, with accessories like straw hats and woven baskets lending it an agrarian feel; models looked like modern milkmaids transported from the fields to Nørrebro’s Jægersborggade in search of a glass of orange wine. There was something distinctly romantic running through it too, perhaps a nod to the upcoming adaptations of Pride and Prejudice and Sense and Sensibility.
Anne Sofie Madsen
Madsen and Clante’s SS27 collection, The New Desire, explored what the pair called the idea of imagining new possibilities, with liquid looks that played on sheer silhouettes and swathes of transparent fabric, alongside frilled knickers and dance shoes. Presented as part of CPHFW NEWTALENT in a stark white room, the show was set to a live flute performance from Danish artist Michala Petri. Reworked Nike T-shirts read “The New Desire: The Future Feels Good on You,” layered under swathes of sheer, colourful fabric. Alongside the wafts of chiffon sat slouchy, rough-and-ready pants and dance shoes, plus visible bra straps, for an off-duty dancer feel that echoed the mood at Baum und Pferdgarten.
The post The Shows You Need To Know About At Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring/Summer 27 appeared first on ELLE.
