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THE RUNDOWN
- Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 runs from September 28 to October 6, with 68 runway shows on the official calendar.
- Dior, Saint Laurent, Tom Ford, Chloé and Dries Van Noten have already delivered some of the week’s standout runway moments.
- Major shows still to come include Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Balenciaga, Celine and Miu Miu.
There is no rest for the wicked. The fashion set has landed in Paris, barely pausing for breath following Milan Fashion Week, ready for a relentless schedule of 68 runway shows and 34 presentations. From the storied ateliers of Chanel and Louis Vuitton to the contemporary edge of Loewe and Miu Miu, the Spring/Summer 2027 circuit is proving exactly why Paris remains the undisputed epicentre of style.
This season is defined by high-stakes transitions. The schedule brings highly anticipated debuts from Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven, alongside the bittersweet end of an era: Anthony Vaccarello’s final showcase for Saint Laurent after a transformative decade as the house’s creative lead.
The week is already off to a phenomenal start. At the Tuileries Garden, Jonathan Anderson struck a masterful tension between the feminine and the masculine, grounding a cascade of ethereal chiffon with rigid bronze metallic trousers and luxurious double-breasted coats. Yet, the most unforgettable moment thus far belongs to Vaccarello, who took his final bow at Saint Laurent in a breathtaking fury of gold.
Dior
The starting point of Dior’s spring/summer 2027 collection was a wénwán nut — an inedible walnut used in Chinese culture to improve dexterity in the hand which, when handled over years, develops a glossy patina. The end point was a collection so ethereal and floaty, it was as if the clothes had minds of their own as the models walked. There were skirts, jackets and dresses covered in silk mousseline petals and sheer blazers that made light work of Anderson’s signature tailoring. Asymmetry underpinned the entire collection, sending a clear message: there’s beauty in imperfection.
Saint Laurent
Everything was golden at Anthony Vaccarello’s decennial show for Saint Laurent. Out of 59 looks, 49 of them were gold, but there was nothing same-same about them. Vaccarello deftly deployed texture to create a collection that felt seminal — lamé, brocade, jacquard and gold leaf-coated latex were just some of the fabrications used — before ending with a finale of 10 showstopping looks that were entirely black.
Maison Margiela
If you cast your mind back to Glenn Marten’s spring/summer 2026 collection for Maison Margiela, where the models’ mouths were freakishly stitched open to resemble the brand’s four-white-stitch signature, you might think this season was conceived by a different designer. The collection was far more commercial than past ones — still weird, in that very avant-garde Maison Margiela way — but it was peppered with jeans and jackets, drapey dresses and poppy floral skirts you just know will be hot property when they land.
Dries Van Noten
At Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner bid adieu to quiet luxury. Imagining off-duty screen sirens running about their day-to-day engagements, the Creative Director meditated on the true origins of glamour. An intricate brooch, an inched belt, the colourful flash of a statement heel, and the way these small elements can elevate a wardrobe. The result was an eclectic, eccentric and dazzling collection that depicted style as playful, layered and joyfully imperfect.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney’s spring collection took us beneath the surface with an ocean-inspired collection that balanced sports utility with sex appeal and chic. Australian exports Miranda Kerr and Angelina Kendall took to the runway, and models showcased everything from wave-contoured lapels and breezy sheer tailoring to innovations in lab-grown wool and recycled fabrics.
Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann took the phrase “less is more” quite literally at Tom Ford this season. Embracing the no-pants movement, he sent out a provocative lineup of bottomless styles. Tiny underwear paired with cosy sweaters, sheer bodysuits, and daring cut-out leotards. A new kind of naked dressing.
Chloé
Chemena Kamali indulged her obsessions for Spring/Summer 27, diving headfirst into her personal fixations and the house’s deeply romantic past. From intricate broderie anglaise to delicate lace lingerie bodysuits juxtaposed with perfectly tailored ’70s flared trousers, every look felt emotionally sincere. It was an intuitive, bohemian dream of a collection that allowed the brand’s most feminine codes to fully bloom.
Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli hit the refresh button, seamlessly merging everyday wardrobe staples with his couture sensibility. Everyday basics were entirely reimagined — neon pink funnel jackets, bright orange sheer fringe dresses, and pristine Oxford shirts tucked into heavily distressed, low-slung jeans. It was an exquisite, colourful exchange between the maker’s hand and modern streetwear.
Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry’s SS27 ready-to-wear collection, titled ‘GOING CLEAR,’ explored the thrilling tension between the “ease of being an American” and the “rigour of French chic”. Scaling back his palette to crisp whites and ecrus to contrast with signature Schiaparelli blacks and ornate golds, Roseberry proved that everyday wear can — and absolutely should — cause a sensation when you walk into a room.
The post These Are The Standout Moments From Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 27 appeared first on ELLE.
