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If there’s any correct way for a creative director to mark a decade at the helm of a house, Anthony Vaccarello did it at Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2027 show. Amidst the 2016 spring/summer season, Vaccarello took on the mantle of Yves Saint Laurent, and over the last 10 years he has shapeshifted his way around the house codes, holding steadfast to the founder’s vision while pushing that sharply sexy Saint Laurent DNA firmly into the future. With this collection, it sure did look like he was going out with a bang.
Held in Saint Laurent’s usual location, with the Eiffel Tower twinkling in the background, Vaccarello presented a collection dedicated almost exclusively to a single colour: gold. In a handwritten note dispatched to a handful of journalists, he wrote, “I’ve had this collection in mind for a long time, and I finally felt that this was the right moment to bring it to light.” Under the glow of chandeliers against the blackened night sky, he did just that in front of a front row just as gilded: Rosé, Kate Moss, Zoë Kravitz, Rami Malek, Post Malone — the list goes on.
The opening look was a distillation of Saint Laurent’s essence. An oversized bomber with a nipped in waist was worn over a hip-hugging pencil skirt with a slit up its centre that stopped just above the knee. The whole thing was fabricated in crinkly, light-reflecting gold, accessorised only with a khaki chiffon scarf tied in an oversized bow around the neck and left to trail behind the model as she walked.
The next 48 looks followed suit. Funnel-neck bomber, biker and safari-style jackets were all worn with pencil skirts in Saint Laurent’s sexy utilitarian style, before Vaccarello introduced slinky see-through cocktail dresses made entirely from guipure lace covered in gold. Next, it was a textural odyssey: latex covered in gold leaf, croc-embossed skirts, tops and jackets, jacquard and brocade pants, mini coat dresses, cropped tops and evening jackets — some fur-trimmed, others beaded. Then, everything went black.
The collection’s final 10 looks were an ode to Yves Saint Laurent’s favourite colour. A broad-shouldered ‘80s-style jacket with a Mandarin collar and oversized jewel-crusted buttons came first, followed by a spectacular silk tulle ballgown with a one-shoulder neckline and dramatic floating train. The remaining eight looks were riffs on these two ensembles, the show concluding with a voluminous, enveloping gown that paid homage to the woman Yves Saint Laurent had always set out to design for: liberated, spirited and a little dramatic.
With a collection this spectacularly grand, it’s hard to ignore the rumours that this show might be Vaccarello’s final. Vogue Runway‘s Nicole Phelps declared: “It looks like goodbye at Saint Laurent,” but whether the show marked Vaccarello’s last hurrah or not, one thing is for sure: he came out on top.
The post All That Glitters Is Gold At Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2027 Show appeared first on ELLE.
